8 Steps You Should Take for a Pre-Ride Checkup

It’s Friday night. You have a long ride all planned and scheduled for the next day. You’re fueled up, hydrated, and all your essential gear and riding apparel is laid out and ready to go. But what about your bike?

It’s always a good idea to give your two-wheeled machine a quick once-over before a major race or long ride. It will increase the likelihood that you catch small problems that could lead to a mechanical breakdown or accident during your big event.

A routine tune-up typically takes about an hour. As long as you have the right tools, it’s a manageable task for even the most modest of home mechanics. Besides addressing potential problems, it will boost your confidence that you can handle anything that might happen out on the road.

(Keep in mind that the procedure outlined here is only applicable to a reasonably maintained bike that’s in good working condition. If your rig has been collecting dust in the back of your garage for several years, have a professional bike mechanic give it a thorough tune-up.)

Step 1: The Quick Wipe-Down

If the bike is only slightly dirty, just give it a good wipe down with a rag. If it is truly dirty, remove both wheels and wash thoroughly. If the drivetrain is really grimy, spray the bike chain and derailleurs with degreaser and let the bike sit for a few minutes. Wet a sponge, hold it on the chain, and turn the crank to draw the chain through the sponge until the links are clean. Clean the crankset and derailleurs as well. Then clean the frame and parts (including the wheels) with a fresh sponge. Rinse by dripping water from above. (Don’t spray directly at the bike because this can force water into the bearings.) Dry the bike and all parts with rags.

Step 2: Headset and Bottom Bracket Check

Stand in front of the bike, holding the fork in one hand and the down tube in the other. Push and pull on the fork to check for play in the headset. Rotate the fork slowly from side to side to feel for roughness. If it’s loose or tight, loosen the stem binder bolts, then remove play or tightness by adjusting the Allen screw atop the stem, and finish by securing the stem bolts. Now check the bottom bracket bearings. Stand beside the frame, hold the crank arms, and push and pull, feeling for play. Most bottom brackets are sealed and reliable. If yours is loose, have a shop remove the crank arms and adjust it.

Step 3: Tire Check

Inspect your bike tires for cracks, cuts, blisters, and baldness. Replace tires, as needed. Also, check tire seating. There are lines on the base of the sidewalls that should sit just above the rim all the way around. If they dip below the rim edge or rise above it, the tire is not seated properly. If you find any of these problems, deflate the tire and re-inflate it, making sure that it seats correctly. Reinstall the wheels on the bike, making sure that they are centered in the frame and the quick-releases are properly tightened.

Step 4: Wheels & Spokes

Starting at the valve stem, work your way around each wheel, wiggling the spokes to see if any are loose. After checking a few spokes, you’ll get a feel for the correct tension. If you find loose spokes, tighten them by turning the nipple clockwise with a spoke wrench (when sighted from above) in half-turn increments. Then spin the wheels and sight trueness by looking at the gap between the rim and brake pad. If you see a wobble, you’ll need to true the wheel.

This is a more complex process and is best left to a bike shop mechanic unless you are an experienced home mechanic. As a primer on wheel truing, to move the rim to the left, loosen right-side nipples and tighten left-side nipples in the problem area. Do the reverse to move it right. Always turn nipples a half-turn at a time and check progress. Patience is key here.

Step 5: Check Your Drivetrain & Repair Tools

Though major components should not come loose during normal use, it is still wise to check them periodically. Without forcing, tighten crank bolts, pedals, chainring bolts, stem binder, handlebar binder, seat binder, seat bolt, brake and derailleur attaching nuts/bolts, and bottle cage screws. (Everything is turned clockwise to tighten except the left pedal, which is turned counterclockwise.)

Also, make sure all your repair gear is in proper working order, including pump or CO2 inflator. Finally, put a drop of lube on the pivot points of clipless pedals, derailleurs, and brakes.

Step 6: Your Cabling & Bike Chain

If they are not internally routed, lube your bike’s shifter cables where they pass under the bottom bracket. Lube the chain, then shift through the gears repeatedly to test derailleur adjustments. Because the rear derailleur’s cable is longer and gets more use, it’s more likely to go out of adjustment. Each click of the rear shift lever should cause the bike chain to immediately jump to the next cog. If not, the cable has probably stretched slightly, or you may have mistakenly adjusted it too tightly. If the chain hesitates to go to a larger cog, the cable is slightly loose. If the chain is slow in moving to a smaller cog, the cable is too tight. Fix slow shifts to larger cogs by turning the adjustment barrel on the rear of the derailleur counterclockwise in half-turn increments. For slow shifts to smaller cogs, do the opposite.

For electronic shifting systems, do the same test, running through both front and rear shifting to make sure everything is operating properly. If you do discover any problems, consult the appropriate troubleshooting manual for your components (Shimano, SRAM, or Campagnolo) to help diagnose and remedy the problem. Adjusting electronic systems is typically much easier than traditional mechanical shifting drivertrains. In fact, as long as your battery is adequately charged, it’s unlikely you’ll have to do much adjusting at all. Just make sure you’re fully charged before the big ride. Without a charged battery, your electronic system will not work. There’s nothing worse than being stuck in one gear all day.

Step 7: Brake Pads

Inspect all four of your bike’s brake pads. If the grooves are worn away, it is time to replace the pads. Make sure that they strike the rim squarely. If not, use an Allen wrench to loosen the nut that secures the pad and reposition it. Squeeze the brake levers to feel the action. The pads should strike the rim well before the levers approach the handlebar. If not, tighten the brake by turning the barrels on the brake calipers. If it’s one piece, turn it counterclockwise until the pads are 1/8 to 1/4 inch away from the rim.

If your bike is equipped with disc brakes, you’ll need to remove the wheels to inspect the pads. Once the wheels are off, assure that your pads have at least 1.5mm of braking material left. Anything less and it’s time for a new set of brake pads. Also make sure that your braking system is working properly by squeezing the levers several times while the wheel and rotor are in place. If the lever action feels mushy or the lever pulls all the way to the bars before engaging, it’s likely time for a brake bleed. This is another advanced-level maintenance task, so if you’re not an experienced mechanic, take your bike to the shop and get the brakes checked and bled if necessary.

Step 8: Test Before You Ride

Once you’ve run through all these steps, take your bike for a short test ride. Shift and brake repeatedly, making adjustments as necessary. Now you are ready for your big ride, confident that as long as your body cooperates there is nothing to prevent you from successfully getting to the finish line.

This article was originally published in Jason Sumner’s Complete Book of Road Cycling Skills.

The Fastest Way to Build Cycling Endurance

For many years, we were told that if we wanted to properly build our base fitness, we needed to spend 12 to 16 weeks riding long, steady, low-intensity miles to strengthen our aerobic systems, so they could eventually handle harder training rides and races. Well, this method works great if it’s your job to get up and ride your bike four to six hours a day, but for the rest of us without many free hours, a schedule-friendly method called polarized training presents a practical way to build endurance on a time budget. (For more tips on building endurance and speed quickly, check out Get Fast!)

As the name implies, polarized training emphasizes the opposite ends of the training spectrum, so in any given week you do both really hard efforts and easy aerobic rides: the best of both worlds. It’s a bit controversial (polarizing?) in a sports science community used to half-day base slogs, but it’s backed by a body of sound research.

“Ultimately, your ‘base’ comes down to your mitochondrial capacity,” says exercise physiologist Paul Laursen, PhD, of the training service lab PlewsandProf.com.

 

“Research shows that while longer, lower-intensity exercise increases the number of mitochondria in your cells, high-intensity training makes those mitochondria more powerful.” (Some studies show high-intensity exercise performed regularly can stimulate the production of mitochondria, too.)

Plus, when you do a set (or especially multiple sets) of high-intensity intervals, your heart rate stays elevated during your “recovery” periods, which benefits your aerobic energy systems—especially as the session progresses, says Laursen.

However you slice it, interval training undoubtedly improves endurance, even if you’re already pretty fit. “Our research has found that when well-trained cyclists performed two interval sessions a week for three to six weeks, their VO2 max, peak aerobic-power output and endurance performance improved by two to four percent,” he says.

To that end, the best recipe for building endurance is blending the distribution of your training so about 80 percent of your rides are in those aerobic ‘zone 2’ intensities (in terms of heart-rate zones) and about 20 percent are performed at high and very-high intensities, or a blend of zones 3 to 5 throughout the week, says Laursen. The Ultimate Endurance Interval
Cyclists looking to optimize their interval training for endurance benefits should perform intervals ranging between 30 seconds to 5 minutes, at a very hard intensity. These build your aerobic system while also being hard enough to recruit some fast-twitch sprint fibers, which makes those power-producing fibers more resistant to fatigue over time.

“Performing three to six of these leg-burning efforts, allowing one to two minutes of recovery in between, can have impressive effects,” says Laursen. As you gain fitness, increase the number of reps and the intensity.

Aim to perform these sessions twice a week, allowing at least a day of recovery in between. Then do the rest of the week’s riding at a moderate aerobic pace. Keep in mind, too, that if you’re planning to do a 100-mile ride, you still need to clock some longer days in the saddle so you can be comfortable on the bike, practice pacing, and dial in your nutrition and hydration—all things that shorter interval workouts can’t do.

Finally, remember that interval training, though beneficial, is also stressful. It’s essential that you not only include easy days and rest days in your weekly training plan, but also that you eat a balanced diet, get adequate sleep, and be mindful of your general recovery.

If you don’t, “you can end up fit but unhealthy with high levels of stress hormones and inflammation that can do real damage over time,” Laursen says. “It’s all about balance.”

Basics of bike gear shifting

1. The Gears
Most bikes have two or three chainrings in the front and anywhere from 7 to 11 gears, or cogs, in the back. Moving the chain from the smallest rear cog to the largest eases your pedalling effort incrementally. Moving it between the chainrings in the front results in a more noticeable change—pedalling feels easier in a smaller chainring and harder in a bigger one.

2. Shifter Savvy
The left-hand shifter changes the front gears; the one on the right controls gears in back. If you get flustered on the fly, remember: RIGHT = REAR.

3. It’s Okay To…
• Use only the rear cogs and the small or middle front chainring when you’re just getting comfortable on a bike.
• look down to see what gear you’re in.
• shift whenever a more experienced rider does.

4. When to Shift
The reason bikes have gears is so you can pedal (relatively) comfortably no matter what the terrain. Shift to an easier gear on climbs or when you’re riding into the wind. Use a harder gear on flats or if the wind is blowing from behind. When in doubt, shift before the terrain changes. When you shift, ease up on the pedals, especially on hills; if you’re pushing hard, the chain may skip or fall off.

5. Avoid Cross-Chaining
That means the chain is at an extreme slant, either in the big ring up front and the biggest cog in back, or the small ring up front and the small cog in back. This not only stresses the hardware, but it also limits your options if you need to shift again.

5. Avoid Cross-Chaining
That means the chain is at an extreme slant, either in the big ring up front and the biggest cog in back, or the small ring up front and the small cog in back. This not only stresses the hardware, but it also limits your options if you need to shift again.